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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.